Key line system of garment cutting by Van Aarle Frank A
Author:Van Aarle, Frank A. [from old catalog]
Language: eng
Format: epub, pdf
Tags: Tailoring
Publisher: [Toledo, Ohio]
Published: 1892-03-25T05:00:00+00:00
Draw slope of shoulder through these two points.
Get width of shoulder of fore part as to * * b)- width of shoulder seam of back, and square down /g of breast as to 13.
Shape shoulder as from 13. " scye " " 13.
" under arm seam through R R.
Square down from X.
X to 14 is I of breast.
Square out from 14.
C to 1 is i of full breast.
Advance square i*^ of breast, with short arm down, and mark on natural waist line as at 4; advance or recede this point as case may be.
Draw a line through these two points, forming the Key Line.
4 to 2 is 1^ inches, or allowance for seams.
2 to 3 is ,2 of breast.
End of gorge is jg of breast, from Key Line on line 14.
End of gorge to Z is 1| inches.
Draw a line from Z to 3.
Make lapel desired width.
Finish as represented.
TO PROVE VOUR DRAFT.
On natural waist line mark i] inch back from Key Line—this is for fish taken out; measure your waist, which must be exact to this point—if this is correct the point of Key Line must, on a proportionattf height on line X, be exactly J of breast measure from X, allowing for the advancing or receding of balance line from normal, as explained in foregoing chapters,
SACK COAT.
To draft from actual measurement for Sack Coat, from the following measures: l()i _8i_29—36—33—3B.
(Sleeve measure is omitted.)
It will be presumed that the ground work of drafting from actual measurement, which is alike for all forms and styles, is fully understood, and will therefore proceed from there on. (See fig. 33.)
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